According to the records, on the first day of class there were 14 boys from the Ponca tribe along with 3 boys and 5 girls from the Ottawa tribe. A few days later 21 Pawnee, 42 Cheyenne, and 36 Arapahoe children were in attendance. By January 1885, 280 children were at the school, 219 boys and 61 girls. These children came from many states and a variety of Indian tribes. In the beginning, the Indian children were elementary age ranging from six to eleven years of age. Within ten years Haskell Institute expanded the age to include Indian youth through the eighth grade. Within two decades, over 600 Indian children were enrolled in the school. The 20th Century saw even greater changes, which we will get to shortly.

February 26, 1971 Early Saturday morning the 13th of February, a fire gutted and destroyed a part of Haskell Indian Junior College’s history and present educational system, Sacagawea Hall. Sacagawea was originally constructed in 18591 and the second floor was added in 1929. The building was total loss.

07-2007 - Starting point of the Santa Fe Trail

Enterprising individuals always seem to attract considerable attention, not so much because of the wealth they acquire, but because their business ventures are usually quite gutsy. In our opinion, William Becknell is one of those enterprising, gutsy individuals.

You may be asking who is Becknell and what did he do? In the early 1820’s Becknell had the intestinal fortitude to take a risk that involved a 1000 mile journey through unsettle regions. Because of his risk, Becknell secured for many future Americans a lucrative trade with Mexico. Becknell turned the Santa Fe Trail into a heavily traveled commercial highway.

No, Becknell did not lay out the famous Santa Fe Trail; it existed long before Becknell’s business endeavors. Actually, even before Becknell established trading relation in Santa Fe, there had been numerous attempts to deal with the Spanish who first controlled Santa Fe. But bartering with the Spanish had rarely been successful; Spain preferred to keep Americans out of the area.

All of this would change in the summer of 1821 when Becknell heard rumors that the Mexicans were planning to revolt against Spain to gain their independence. Quickly responding to this news, Becknell loaded up pack mules with trade items, and on September 1, 1821 Becknell and three companions headed for Santa Fe. Upon their arrival, Becknell, his men, and the pack mules received a warm welcome from the Mexicans, thus securing trade between the two countries for decades to come.

The Immenschuh’s did a great job covering the Santa Fe Trail as it snaked its way through Kansas. We, however, decided to add one more chapter and focus on the origin of the famous Trail, which by most accounts was in Old Franklin, Missouri. Old Franklin, located about 100 miles east of Kansas City, was a key port town on the Missouri River.

Even before statehood, Franklin, Missouri was an active port hosting steamboats and barges traveling up and down the Missouri River. As a key river port, Franklin provided the logical starting place to begin the one thousand miles journey to Santa Fe, Mexico. But, Old Franklin’s glory was somewhat short lived as the town had the misfortune of being washed away in a flood in 1828.

Marie and I traveled over to Old Franklin to check out the site –believe us it’s gone. There is New Franklin, which is a thriving little community of about 2000. But today, neither New or Old Franklin, if it still existed, would be river towns. The Missouri River has meandered so much that both are now considerable distance from the River. It is really amazing how much a River can wander and change it course.

Arrow Rock, located a dozen miles west of Old Franklin, also played an active role in the early stages of commercial travels to Santa Fe. Arrow Rock was also a River town, but its proximity to Franklin and positioning on the River caused it to have a slightly different role. Old Franklin was situated on the north bank of the Missouri River, at Franklin the River makes a slight curve to the north. Because of this curving to the North, Arrow Rock developed on the west bank of the River.

For traders it was both convenient and faster, after loading up with trade items at Old Franklin, to travel over land the short distance to Arrow Rock: they would cross the River on a ferry boat. Once on the other side of the River they would continue their journey West down the Santa Fe Trail. As early as 1815, Arrow Rock had a ferry crossing, so the washing away of Old Franklin did not stop the commercial travel to Mexico via the Santa Fe Trail.

Having a place to cross the River became extremely important within the first year of trade started by Becknell. Using pack mules to carry goods to Santa Fe ended quickly when traders realized using freight wagons would be more profitable-obviously, so much more could be carried both to and from Santa Fe in the wagons. But wagons need a dependable place for crossing the Missouri; a role the Arrow Rock ferry could easily accommodate.

After checking out the nothingness of Old Franklin, we headed down the road to Arrow Rock. The little town of Arrow Rock more than makes up for the loss of Old Franklin. If you like historical sites, you’ll love Arrow Rock. Virtually, the entire town has been restored to the former days when it was a famous and popular place to cross the Missouri. A good portion of the buildings that served the town when it was a river crossing are still standing today. A trip to Arrow Rock is like a journey back to the early 1800s.

In addition to the restoration of the town of Arrow Rock, the state of Missouri has put up an outstanding visitor center there which gives an excellent history of the area. Plus, the area has both an extensive and well kept park/camp ground.

In the park one can drive up to the top of a bluff over-looking the Missouri River. On the bluff one has a panoramic view! The museum curator told us that the ferry crossing was somewhere in the vicinity of the bluff look out over the River. But, again the River has meandered a considerable distance from Arrow Rock, so it no longer is a River front town.

Records show that a trader leaving Arrow Rock with $30,000 worth of trading goods could expect a return of $200,000. That is quite a profit for the early 1800s! Otto and I would not sneeze at that sum even today. American traders primarily exchanged cotton fabrics, cutlery, hardware-especially nails-and other odds and ends such as brushes, razors, mirrors, needles, scissors, Mexican furs, gold and silver.

O6-2007 - Tornados

The devastation of the recent tornado in Greensburg caused us to think about how powerful Mother Nature can be, how unexpectedly everything in life can change, and how fame can come through the most unlikely circumstances. We only saw pictures of the aftermath of the tornado’s damage—but the pictures made it clear that a phenomenal force passed through Greensburg—it was incredible. The tornado that swept down on Greensburg lasted a matter of minutes, yet the destruction was total. The news report said ninety-five percent of the city was gone—to us that is total destruction. No doubt when the citizens heard the warning—they had about twenty minutes to take cover—they never imagined how transformed the landscape would be when they emerged from their places of refuge. Most likely, none of the residents expected to find how drastically everything would be changed: no homes, no vehicles, no businesses, no schools, no personal belongings, no Greensburg. The small southwestern town has now gained national fame, but not in the way anyone really wishes for celebrity.

The tornado that blew apart the town was the strongest tornado nature produces a F5. The destructive nature of a tornado is due to high winds that are produced in a violently twisting funnel cloud. A cloud we are told by weather scientists that results when cold and warm moist air mix rapidly together. The velocity of the wind in the funnel cloud as it drags along the ground causes the objects in its path to be torn apart—maybe a better description is blown apart. Not only does the funnel cloud explode objects, but also it throws objects with such force that more destruction occurs from the flying debris.

While researching the subject of tornados, we came across some interesting definition of six types of wind. A gale wind is roughly between 40-72 mph and can cause light damage like blowing down chimneys, breaking branches, and damage to signs. The next wind after gale was called moderate; it blows between 73-115 mph. Moderate wind can damage roofs, push mobile homes off foundation, and other forms of "moderate" damage. Significant wind, the next category, is a wind blowing between 113-157 mph. Significant winds can cause considerable damage such as ripping the entire roofs from houses, demolishing mobile homes, pushing boxcars over, and uprooting or snapping large trees in half. Although quite damaging, significant winds are not the most forceful—there are still three more wind classifications.

The sever winds blows between 158-206 mph. Sever winds can overturn trains, destroy walls of brick homes and buildings, throw vehicles through the air, and create a wide spread path of destruction in a forest. The next winds were called devastating—they whistle by at 207-260 mph. They literately can send sailing through the air buildings, vehicles, trees, virtually remove everything from its foundation. Once uprooted from the foundation the object is hurled great distances with tremendous force. Still, there is one more level of destructive wind—the incredible, which blows between 261-318 mph. Such a forceful wind just sweeps a clean path of anything in its path. It can pickup anything, hurl it a great distance with unbelievable force, leaving in its wake a path of nothingness.

We read that the wind that passed through Greensburg was of the devastating speed—205 mph—but somehow the descriptive term incredible seems a more definable term. Looking at pictures of the aftermath left us with that incredible "can’t believe what I see" sensation. Our hearts go out to the people of Greensburg. A town that we had been to—yes the largest hand dug well drew us there—on more then one occasion.

We understand that the residents of Greensburg had about twenty minutes to take cover. Twenty minutes is certainly not long, but twenty-five years ago people would not have even had that much warning. As most of you know, meteorologists first issue a "tornado watch," which means the potential for a tornado to develop exist. "Tornado warnings" come only after it is clear that a tornado has formed. Thanks to the modernization of weather service, forecasters have a much more comprehensive picture of what is developing and know much sooner that a violent rotating funnel has formed. Modern storm radar shows a true picture of the tornado giving more warning time—precious time to take cover.

While tornados come in all shapes and sizes and can occur in any season in the US, there is a general tendency for the height of the tornado season in the northern states to occur in the summer, and the height of the tornado season in the southern states is in spring. But, like just about all rules there is an exception. The devastation in Greensburg was in the spring.

Here is a litany of trivia information on US tornadoes. The first recorded tornado in the US occurred in 1671 hitting Rehobeth, Massachusetts. On May 7, 1840 the center of Natchez, Mississippi was hit by a tornado killing 317 and injuring over 1,000. A good portion of the city was blown away. On June 12, 1899 New Richmond, Wisconsin was hit in the afternoon. Many of the citizens were attending an outdoor circus. The tornado took the lives of 114. One advantage the people had—they were out door and saw it coming—so many made it to shelter.

The Tri-State Tornado, which occurred on March 18, 1925, is considered the most deadly. It formed near Ellington Missouri crossed into southern Illinois and southern Indiana; the duration of the twister was 3.5 hours, killing 695 people and destroyed an unbelievable amount of property.

On May 11, 1953 a tornado hit downtown Waco, Texas killing 114 people and demolishing 200 businesses. Bricks from the demolished buildings were piled to a depth of over five feet in places. April 11-12, 1965 is called the Palm Sunday outbreak with fifty tornadoes in the Great Lakes region including parts of Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, and Ohio, leaving 256 dead and 3,402 injured. May 3, 1999 the strongest tornado on record occurred in suburb of Oklahoma City. Wind speeds of 318 mph were recorded. The storm cell spewing this tornado caused 69 more tornadoes in the area. Loss of live was low 38, but property damage was $1.1 billion. Clearly modern storm detection was a factor lowering death, but Mother Nature still rules in terms of property destroyed.

Closer to home is the April 21, 2001 tornado in Hoisington. That tornado was a powerful twister classified as a F4; the one in Greensburg was an F5. Classification is based on wind speed. The one in Hoisington killed only one person, injuring twenty-eight, but over $43 million in property damage.

Some of you may recall the May 1-11, 2003 period. During this period more tornadoes formed in roughly a ten day period than typical—over 412 tornadoes were confirmed in eight states. The ratings of these tornadoes were F3 and F4. At least 38 died as the result of all the tornado activity; the cost of Mother Nature joy ride was $3.2 billion.

Here are a few more interesting facts about tornadoes. The US has more tornadoes then any other nation, averaging over 1,000 a year. And most of these occur in "Tornado Alley," which included the states of Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, and Nebraska. In tornado alley most of the twister occur in the spring to early summer. The unstable weather condition caused by the cool air flowing down from Canada collides with the warmer moist air coming up from the Gulf of Mexico. Often when these two air pattern meet supercell thunderstorms form in turn these supercells spawn the tornadoes.

We’re closing with some myth regarding tornadoes—we think these are worth sharing. Myth # 1—if you are traveling on the interstate and near an overpass, quickly get to the underpass and take cover. Seeking shelter in an underpass is one of the worst things one can do—winds in underpasses are stronger then in the surrounding area. Myth # 2—the southwest corner of a basement is the safest place to go. Any corner is unsafe. Stay near the basement stairs, if a tornado takes your home all kinds of debris is likely to end up in the corners. Think about how dusts and fuzz bunnies end up in the corner of a room. Myth # 3—tornados do not cross water or rivers—so get to the other side quickly. Tornados when they are moving through know no boundaries—they can cross over or through water as easy as Moses.

The bottom line is keep alert when a storm is in the area. Have a plan for taking shelter if a tornado has been sighted near you. Last, give Mother Nature the respect due her, never under estimate her.

05-2007

The Harvey Houses certainly added grace and elegance to the Plains of Western Kansas.

Goods are constantly being moved across the nation from east to west and north to south. The trucking industry in the US is big business. When driving on the major interstate highways one sees just about as many semi-trucks as one sees automobiles. Prior to the semi-trailer trucks, goods traveled throughout the nation via the railroad. Today, railroads are still active in hauling freight. But neither the trucks nor railroads provide the starting point in the story of hauling goods. This month we are going back to a time before either trucks or railroads hauled the goods—we are going back to the days of the mule and ox drawn freight trains.

The history of animal drawn freight trains is quite fascinating. We believe part of the fascination is connected to the hardships faced by the wagon drivers. All industries have there share of difficulties, but in the bygone era of the freight wagons the hardships seemed to be more intense and life threatening. For example, snows storms or torrential rains proved quite brutal on both man and animal caught without shelter on the plains, which all too often was the case. Certainly after a long day in the elements there were no comfy hotel or truckers’ rest stops to relax in. Another conflict the wagon freight caravans faced were clashes with the Native Americans and roaming herd of buffalos. When you think about what the wagon drivers faced in hauling the goods, you wonder why anyone chose such a job.

Like most high risk jobs, money proves to be a powerful motivating factor. In decades past, the demand for goods in remote areas west of the "established civilization" made the hazardous trips profitable. At least it was profitable if the wagons, teams and drivers made it to the destination without loss of goods, beasts, or men. We have also decided that along with profit the drivers of these wagons liked adventure. We feel the desire for adventure was just as motivating to the wagon haulers as making money. We came to that conclusion after reading the account of one freight hauler that moved freight on the plains between 1860 and 1868.

Charles Raber at the age of nineteen started driving a wagon on freight trains. His first job was with the Ellsbach & Ransehof Company. The company engaged in hauling freight between Westport, Missouri and Salt Lake City, Utah. The company liked to get an early start in spring, starting before the larger freight trains headed out West.

Ellsbach & Ransehof used smaller wagons, which meant smaller loads. These smaller wagons were pulled by mules. Their reason for starting before the big freight trains is obvious, but the smaller wagons and mule teams provided added incentive. The Salt Lake area Mormon farmers that bought the goods would also buy the wagons, mules, and team harnesses. Ellsbach & Ransehof made sure the mules arrived in Salt Lake City strong and healthy. In order to insure healthy, strong mules extra food was carried for the animals because the trip to Salt Lake City passed through areas of sparse vegetation. But if all went well, by journey’s end the company reaped a good profit margin selling everything—except the drivers of course.

Charles admits to being quite green at the start of his wagon driving career. On the first trip, he started a stampede of all the mule teams —it could have been a serious mistake, but luckily the wagon master and a few other drivers were experienced enough to prevent a total disaster. The trip started out on a typical windy spring day; Charles’ wagon was bringing up the rear of the freight train. Suddenly a gust of wind sent his hat sailing. Now a good wagon driver knows crossing the plains without proper headgear is not wise. So, Charles pulled his wagon to a stop, jumped down hoping to quickly retrieve the hat, without slowing down the six wagons ahead. This seemingly simple action proved a big mistake.

Apparently, the wind blew the slack unattended lines under of his mule team hitting the animals’ legs causing them to spook. A spooked animal has the tendency to run, which is exactly what his team did—the team started running at top speed in the direction of the other teams. Charles’ unattended runaway mule team veered around each of the other teams. The runaway team, running past the other teams, caused them to spook and they started running. In a matter of minutes all seven teams were running wildly across the plains. Luckily, the wagon master riding his horse at the front of the wagon train immediately realized the problem and headed for the runaway team, catching it before the wagon had tipped over. Soon the other drivers started slowing down and halting their teams—peace was restored.

Charles was quite worried about the tongue lashing he would get from the wagon master. But, the wagon master knowing Charles was a green driver didn’t tear into him—instead he just reminded Charles of the basic freight train rule—that whenever a problem arise you holler out hold on. That simple command lets the other drivers know that everyone needs to stop—a lesson that Charles never forgot. While the wagon master wasn’t hard on him, his follow team drivers enjoyed reminding him of his folly for the rest of the trip.

Charles also tells about a snow storm that they had on that first trip—it happened on May 8th. We’re going to use Charles own words in sharing that story: Our first real unpleasant experience occurred on the 8th of May. The weather was mild when we went into camp, but during the night a regular blizzard came up from the northwest. The snow and sleet cut like a razor, and being in the open country with no shelter whatever it, became almost impossible for the herder to hold the mules. About midnight the boss routed us all out, and we had to hitch up in the dark.

The storm keep up until about noon, when the sun began to break through, but the boss kept on going until about two o’clock before he went into camp. We were cold and hungry, and thought he was the meanest man on earth for not stopping sooner, but he knew his business better than we did; he had to make a certain point before he could find a good camping place. But we were the most discouraged lot of "mule whackers" you ever heard tell of, and declared up and down that if the good Lord would ever forgive us for making the trip we would never be caught o the plains again.

Also on that first trip the men thought they had found gold in a small creek that had its source from the Wind River high in the mountains. The wagon train boss said nothing, just watched silently as the men wrapped-up clumps of mud that they were certain contained specks of gold. Once the mud was dry, the specks proved to be only mica. The men quickly forgot the "get-rich-quick" dream they were certain they would find once they reached Salt Lake City and had the gold assayed. The twenty-five dollars a month wages looked pretty dang good—better then mud balls with mica flakes. That first trip to Salt Lake City took fifty days—returning back to Westport only took forty days.

Charles mentioned an unpleasant experience he had with the Native Americans on a later trip. We have written on the plight of the Native Americans—how they were forced on reservations and then forced off the same reservation by land hungry settlers. The Native Americans had great difficulty in finding enough food—especially as the white man settling down to farm found the great herd of buffalos a nuisance and begin to wantonly slaughter them. The Native Americans became beggars, often approaching the freight trains asking for handout. In most cases, the freighters would share some food.

Charles, however, described a situation where trouble arose. No longer just a driver, Charles now owned and operated his own freighting line. One morning, prior to heading out after an evening of camping on the Arkansas, a number of Native American families approached the wagon train and asked for food. Charles obliged the families. After sharing the food, he took stock and felt he could give no more food away, fearing if he did he would jeopardize the wagon drivers. They still had many days of travel and needed the remainder of food for their own consumption.

As they commenced traveling, a Cheyenne party arrived on the scene wanting food. Charles explained that he had already given food to Indian families earlier in the day and felt what was left was what the wagon train would need. The Cheyenne party was not satisfied. The Natives drew their bows and arrows at Charles, making it clear that unless given food—Charles would be killed. Charles complied and gave the Indians some sugar, coffee, and flour. The Cheyenne were pleased and moved on. Charles was glad his life had been spared—but quite angry over the incident.

Charles related some interesting incidents involving the buffalo herds the trains often encountered. Once they found themselves in the direct line of an oncoming stampeding herd of the big woolly creatures. They had often heard that a stampeding herd of buffalos neither stopped nor swerved for anything. The wagon train could not begin to move out of the way for the oncoming herd. So, they begin embracing for the worst—being run over by the herd. To their delightful surprise the herd veered around the wagons, neither hitting nor hurting any man, animal or wagon.

Another problem with buffalo herds occurred when oxen were the draft animals. At night the oxen were allowed to graze and rest mostly unfettered while a herdsman watched. If a buffalo herd passed by during the night, the oxen tended to follow after the herd. Of course the herdsman would quickly rally some men and hurry to round up the roaring oxen, but on some occasions the men could not round up the oxen. Those oxen actually became a permanent part of the buffalo herd. That must have been an interesting sight seeing a herd of buffalos with a few oxen mixed in the bunch.

Charles, after forming his own freighting company with some other partners, did more and more trading in the southwest, making numerous trips to the Santa Fe area. In his article he gave a good description of hardships encountered with hauling in the Southwest. Charles wrote: New Mexico was a hard country to freight in on account of scarcity of water and grass and bad roads. Near all the settlements the grass was nibbled off by the cattle and goats of the natives. I could cover more ground in two weeks on the plains than I could in a month in New Mexico. In looking over my old account books I find that I had to pay as high as eighteen dollars for a sack of flour, one dollar a pound for coffee, fifty cents a pound for sugar and bacon, the same for rosin and tallow to make axle grease. Trading in the southwest was more difficult on the livestock and the profit margin lower because goods cost more.

Nonetheless, it appears that Charles did quite well during the eight years that he was in the freighting business. But business in the final years certainly started slowing down. Toward the end, he was hauling freight mostly to army forts. Hauling supplies to Forts Larned and Harker were the last two jobs he mentioned. He and his partners knew the growing railroad industry would soon put the freight wagon trains completely out of business. In the final days he and his partner sold the livestock and wagons and used the money gained to invest in Kansas City real estate. Farmers and merchants were constantly moving west looking for new land, new business, and new futures—so selling real estate was the next means of making a living.

Like all things in life there always seems to be an end—and the "bull trains" as they were often called gave way to the faster railroad trains. But while the animal freight lines were active a rich history was developing and interesting tales were being spun. No doubt about it—Charles was a part of a rich period in US history, Charles Rader’s article is entitled Life on the Plains, 1860 to 1868. It is printed in volume sixteen of the Collections of the Kansas State Historical Society, 1923-1925.

03-2007 The Pony Express

History is usually written in a "cause and effect" manner. An historian, when describing an event, always includes the reason(s) the event happened. Nothing just happens in history—there is always a chain of happenings leading up to a major historical event. For example, a major war is the result of many smaller disputes—many little causes lead to major effects.

Somewhat similar to "cause and effect" is the theory of "necessity precedes possibility." In this case, there first must be a great need for a thing before something happens. For example, the need for being cool on a hot summer day existed before someone invented the AC. If we still have a few readers following along, those few readers are most likely wondering if this article is about something.

Yes, we are heading in a direction. In fact, we are laying the groundwork for an article on the Pony Express. Quite a number of years ago, we wrote about the Pony Express. Recently, something rekindled our interest in the Pony Express, so we’re writing again about the subject.

Even though the Pony Express was in existence for a very short time—only about nineteen months from April 1860 through October 1861—it was one of those historical events that remains popular and stimulates the imagination. In 1860-1861 the accomplishment of the Pony Express was just as exciting to hear about as watching the first moon landing was some hundred years later. Delivering mail across the nation in a little over a week—was exciting "stuff."

There were a number of causes behind the creation of the Pony Express. Most of these causes are either directly or indirectly related to the brewing issue over slavery. The statehood of California was one obvious cause; it had entered the Union in 1850. The entrance of California had upset the delicate balance of slave versus non-slave states—now there was one more non-slave state. Almost every major historical event in the decade between 1850 and 1860 edged the nation towards civil war. The entrance of California added fuel to the fire partly because of the Compromise of 1850, which laid out the plan for California’s admission to the Union. Under this Compromise, California entered in as a free state. To counteract the fact that there were now more free states than slave states, the Fugitive Slave Act was included as part of the Compromise of 1850—a law hated by those opposing slavery and loved by those involved in slavery.

The Fugitive Slave law made all citizens obligated to help capture and return run away slaves. You might be a staunch abolitionist, but according to the law if you knew of a fugitive slave you must help in the capture of the person. It also denied legal right to fugitive slaves—they were not allowed a trial by a jury. Instead they faced trial by a commission. Interestingly, the commissioners were paid $10 if they found the person to be a fugitive slave and only $5 if they decided the person was not a fugitive—wonder what that led too? Because the law allowed little legal recourse for the blacks, often free blacks accused of being a fugitive could do nothing to prove otherwise and were sent back into slavery. Plus the law made it very convenient for slave owners to file a claim—and many claims were filed.

As mentioned just about every event in the years between 1850 and 1860 added fuel to the fire that erupted into civil war. As a result, the government became increasing concerned about keeping in touch with the western states—California in particular, so the plan hatching the Pony Express was born. A major cause for the creation of the Pony Express was this need for better communication between the extreme eastern and the western regions of the US. The necessity or the need for faster communication between the east and west created the possibility for the Pony Express. Three men are credited with providing the possibility: William H. Russell, William B. Waddell, and Alexander Majors.

Prior to the Pony Express, these three men had created one of the most successful freight lines carrying goods west to new settlements and army forts. In the history of early ox-cart freight trains, the operation and size of the Russell, Waddell, and Majors freight business is phenomenal—we just may tackle that story next month. Sadly, the venture of hauling mail across the nation was not the economic success that the three men had hoped it would be. They took up the enterprise of hauling the mail to California in hopes of making money to recover from a serious loss they experienced in 1857.

A good portion of the freight company’s business was from government contracts involving supplying goods to army forts scattered throughout the West. In 1857 because of conflicts between the Mormon militia and the US government over the Utah territory the Russell, Waddell, and Majors freight company had fifty-four wagons destroyed. Since the army would not reimburse the men for the loss of the wagons—they begin to seek out other means of making money. They were hoping acquiring a contract to haul mail to California would prove profitable.

A worker for the Russell, Waddell, and Majors’ company suggested a different route for the mail. Even though, the route was farther north than some existing routes the employee insisted it would be an excellent mail route. The route started in the NW corner of Missouri in St Joseph, passed through a tiny strip of the NE corner of Kansas, a southern portion of Nebraska, up into and passing through Wyoming, crossing the upper portion of Utah, then down across Nevada, and finally ending in Sacramento California. [See map] Once the route was mapped out, the next step involved determining the number of stations, riders, and horses that would be needed to complete the 1,966 mile trip between St Joseph Missouri and Sacramento California.

If you are wondering why St Joseph became the starting point for the Pony Express, two words best answer the question: telegraph and train. They had both reached St Joseph MO by 1860. Since the mail and news reached St Joseph relatively quick, it was logical to make the town the starting point for the Pony Express.

The Pony Express horses would be running at a steady speed of about ten miles per hour, so the stations were placed about ten miles apart. Consequently, there were 150 to 190 stations along the route. Each station was kept stocked with fresh mounts. Approximately 400 horses were needed for the entire route. Of course the stations supplied not only for food for the horses but also essentials for the riders and those employed to tend the stations.

While the horse only made a ten mile run, the rider would ride for 75 to 100 miles. Over 100 riders would be involved in the Pony Express. The rider’s age range was eleven to the mid forties—supposedly the youngest rider was an eleven year old boy. The riders could weight no more than 125 lb. Their weight, plus the weight of the mail bag, and supplies the rider needed would total up to about 165 lb, which was enough weight for the horse. The riders’ pay was one hundred dollars a month.

Typically, horses and riders would travel over two hundred miles a day. The average run between the start and finish points was ten days, but one run was only seven days and seventeen hours—that run was carrying President Lincoln’s inaugural address. A special leather mailbag was designed for carrying the mail; it hung across the saddle. The bag was called a mochila and had four compartment for the mail. The original price for sending a letter was five dollars for ½ ounce—later that was dropped to one dollar. Quite obviously the mail carried on the route was of a very important nature—most people could not afford to send friendly letters at $5 or even $1 per ½ ounce.

The Pony Express came to an end when the telegraph line reached California, which was on October 24, 1861. Since the telegraph could quickly relay essential, news breaking information the ponies and rides were no longer needed. By 1869 the transcontinental railroad was completed. For many decades to come the iron horse would be the mover of the mail across the nation.

In some way, Russell, Waddell, and Majors may have been glad when the Pony Express ended. They had invested some $700,000 into the venture. At the end of the venture they were $200,000 in the red. As mentioned earlier the Pony Express was not a positive economic investment—partly because they could never secure a government contract for the hauling of the mail. It seems the Pony Express was one of the investments that looks better on paper than in real life.

02-2007 Westport's Harris-Kearney House

Recently, Otto and I toured an interesting Kansas City historical home, the Harris-Kearney Home. We always find historical homes interesting for two reasons: they provide a glimpse into past history as well as providing some interesting architectural structure and style for that period in time. This particular home was built in 1855. Any 150 year old home always begs for the fulfillment of the phrase "if walls could only talk." But even if the walls do not talk, the Westport Historical Society has done an excellent job in preserving and presenting the history of the home and the impact of the owners during their life on Westport. After touring the home, we came away knowing a great deal about both the history of the home and area plus the architectural structure that was quite an outstanding style for the period. We want to share these new discoveries with our readers. Our enjoyable tour of the Harris-Kearney home is credited to Curator Betty Ergovich.

The home was built for John and Henrietta Harris in 1855. The couple had settled in the Kansas City/Westport area over two decades earlier, coming from Kentucky in 1832. The Harris family, no doubt, came to the Kansas City area to get in on the lucrative trade market that was booming in KC at that time.

We have written past articles on the Santa Fe Trail, so we’ll just briefly refresh your memory about Kansas City’s connection to the famous Trail. Independence, Missouri was founded in the late 1820s and quickly became the official headquarters for the start of the Santa Fe Trail and other trails carrying eager pioneers west. Westport was born shortly after Independence. John Calvin McCoy opened a trading post in 1833 and plotted a town, which eventually became West Port (original spelling). McCoy hauled freight from a landing on the Missouri River some three miles north of his trading post. Three miles doesn’t sound like a great distance—unless the year is 1833 and it’s in the eastern most part of Missouri. Trees, rocks, hilly terrain made moving freight wagons loaded with goods a slow process until the path became well-worn. McCoy’s trading post at first primarily served the Native Americans, but it soon started outfitting the countless settlers that were heading west for the opportunity of land and wealth, or simply someone wanting to fulfill a dream of adventure.

For a time both Independence and Westport attracted merchants that were willing to work hard setting up shops supplying pioneers heading west on one of the three trails that passed through the KC area. Once in Westport, Harris was eager to get involved in making money either by trade or land development. It appears that buying and selling land was one of his first interests, but in 1846 he purchased an inn. The original inn burned down, which Harris replace in 1852 with a three story brick structure—it was called the Harris House Hotel. The Hotel played a famous part in both the pre-civil and Civil War periods.

As a southerner, Harris catered to those supporting the South. In the pre-Civil War period of the Kansas Territorial Days, Missourians were determined to see Kansas become a slave state. No doubt, Harris treated the guests from Missouri much better than any "freesoiler" that might be heading to Kansas.

The Harris House Hotel survived the Civil War, we’re told, not because of the good food and excellent accommodations, but because the Federal troops used it for headquarters and as a hospital for those wounded in the Battle of Westport. General Curtis, who was in charge of the federal troops, used the hotel roof as a lookout as he searched for the rebels in the area. The Harris House Hotel was in existence until 1922; it was demolished at that time.

By 1854 John Harris was quite wealthy by the standards of that day—no doubt he would be considered wealthy by today’s standards. John and Henrietta Harris had eight children, seven girls and one boy. The boy was actually the second child born, but somewhere along the line John Harris disinherited his son because his son had gone through a divorce. The old man in his will would remember his daughters but not his son. His son’s portion of the inheritance went to the divorced wife.

We saw a couple portraits of John Harris. He looked quite fierce; he looked like someone that you would not want to provoke. John was also not pleased with his eldest daughter’s choice of husband—an Irish Catholic. Probably his dislike for that daughter’s husband was more because that son-in-law did not have much money. Another daughter, Josephine, who eventually becomes the mistress of the historical house, had also married an Irishman—but this Irishman had education, money, and a successful military career to his name. We will return to Josephine and husband a little later in our account.

At any rate, in 1855 with most of the family gone from the nest and pockets full of money—John Harris decided to build a "fancy" home for his wife and two daughters still living at home. One daughter had returned home after becoming a widow. It is this 1855 home that is the focus of our article this month.

Harris owned quite a lot of property in the area, so selecting a good site was most likely not a problem for him. The original site of the Harris home was at the corner of Westport Road and Main Street, which was a very active intersection for the period. Come to think of it—it is still quite an active intersection for those living in mid-town. When the house was built at this location it was actually the east edge of town. Now this location is in the middle of KC or near the middle.

Harris built his home from scratch so to speak. The red bricks used in construction were made and fired on the location. The wood used in the dwelling was cut from the walnut and oak trees on Harris property. And of course the labor was from Harris’ slaves. Upon entering the house, one first sees a beautiful carved, curved staircase leading to the second story. The stairway is made of black walnut cut from Harris’ trees; the staircase is ornately beautiful.

What contributes so much to the enjoyment of viewing the home are the exquisite decorations of the home. While none of the original furnishings exists, the main part of the home has been re-decorated with antique furniture and accessories of late 1800s. There are two rooms on the main floor, a dining room and a parlor. The parlor was decorated by the Woman’s City Club of Kansas City. The dining room was furnished by members of the Westport Historical Society. On the second floor are two bedrooms; the south bedroom was furnished by The Colonial Dames of America; the other room’s furnishings were provided by Society members.

We did learn from the Society’s 1st Vice President, Alana Smith, that the Westport Historical Society is in the process of refurbishing the entire home. They want to furnish it with items only from the 1850-1870s. This change of furnishings will make the home an exact replica of the period when it was originally constructed. As we mentioned previously, the home currently is exquisitely decorated—but we’re sure it will be even better with items dating from the time the home was built. All we can say is one literally enters a world of the past when touring the house.

The walls of the home are thirteen inches thick and the ceilings are high—at least eighteen feet. The original home consisted of only four rooms: the dining room and parlor downstairs and two bedrooms on the second floor. The kitchen was in a separate building off to the back of the house. Kitchens were often not a part of the house because of the heat a kitchen produced—which was especially oppressive in the warmer month, plus for wealthy families the kitchen duties were always attended to by the servants or in this case most likely slaves.

This gracious house served John and Henrietta for about twenty years. John died in 1874. Upon his death, his daughter Josephine and her husband Colonel Charles Kearney moved in the home. The Kearney family moved in so that Josephine could take care of her aging mother, Henrietta, who died in 1881.

The Kearneys added a two story addition to the back of the house. The upper floor was reserved for the elderly matriarch and the bottom floor added some more space for the Kearney family. Both levels opened onto long porches. These porches were on the south side, which certainly added some coolness in long summer evenings. The Kearney family was in the home for a nearly three decades. There are no records of the house during the first couple decades of the 20th century after the Kearneys were gone. But in 1922 it was decided to move the home off of Main Street.

The house was moved about a block south and half a block west—no a great distance, but still a challenge. The original house and the added brick addition were moved as two separate sections. We saw pictures of how the two sections were raised off their foundations about four feet onto wooden planks. Mules were used to pull—maybe drag is a better description—the house to the new location.

We’re not sure if the house served as a residence at the new location, but we do know that it was at one time a doctor’s office. Finally, in 1976 the Westport Historical Society acquired the home. The Society was determined to return the home back to the original beautiful dwelling. And, they have done an outstanding job of renovation and furnishing it with items of the era. The home is in excellent condition. We were very impressed. The home is on the National Register of Historic Homes.

Marie and I found it interesting to muse about what secrets the old walls of the stately home might be keeping. The Harris’ as Southern sympathizers and slave holders most likely held meetings in the parlor where John Harris and other Southern supporters discussed the impending war that most knew would soon occur. They probably discussed the plan of action they would take when the Civil War broke out. Anyone that knows the history of Kansas knows about the Border Wars between Missouri and Kansas before the Civil War erupted. Kansas and Missouri had their own mini civil war six years before the "great war" dividing the nation exploded.

01-2007 - Kansas City Toy & Miniature Museum

Marie and I have tried to give you a visual imagine of a few of the antique toys and miniatures housed in the museum. Yet, the written word in this case lends a very limited picture of all that can be found in the Toy and Miniature Museum. One thing we know for sure as we write this article, the museum is a place that must be viewed because words fall short of what the eyes will experience.

12-2006 Orphan Trains

Marie and I are always profoundly affected by sad stories involving children. We find it difficult to understand why innocent children are abused or neglected, yet that happens too often. Our story this month involves suffering children; actually, it is a story that has both happy and sad elements. The story also makes an interesting connection between the mid-west and the east coast.

Some of our readers may have heard of the Orphan Trains; a term applied to trains that carried thousands of New York children to new homes in rural American. These were not just any children, but a special group of children that clearly were underdogs in society. They were mostly children of first generation immigrant families—often being in American only a brief time before disaster hit.

Immigrant families coming to the US—the land of opportunity—headed for the big cities looking for jobs. New York was a prime destination for many immigrants. Life in big unfamiliar cities held trials for these immigrants. Trying to provide the essentials for humble survival proved extremely difficult for the newly planted immigrants. Immigrant families arrived poor, virtually penniless, as a result shelter, food, clothing, and medicine was almost non-existing or in short supply for them. Death lingered near the doorstep at all times; often both parent died from disease, exhaustion, or occupational accidents—factories in the 1800s had no safety regulations. The loss of both parent left children to fend for themselves. Most families immigrating to the US came as single families, so there were no extended families available that could take care of the children. As a result these orphaned children were on their own trying to manage in whatever way they could, usually staying one step ahead of starvation.

Not all the immigrant children that were suffering were orphans; many of these children experienced abuse, neglect, or abandonment at the hands of parents that were overwhelmed from trying to cope with such impoverished conditions. As we all know, poverty often breeds family violence and abandonment.

For a wide variety of reasons thousands of urchins roamed the city streets of New York looking for food, shelter, and work. The ages of these orphaned, abandoned, run-away, abused, homeless children could be as young tiny infants to teenagers. Often big brothers or sisters were left in charge of young siblings. Living in such conditions threatened the lives of these destitute children. Many died, turned to a life of crime, became prostitutes, or ran in gang, all of which only added to their state of misery. We think our readers can quickly visualize what life was like for a homeless child on the streets of New York.

Charles Loren Brace became the crusader and savior of many of these homeless waifs. While a student at the Yale Divinity School and Union Theological Seminary, he became concerned about the thousands of children scavenging for survival on the streets of New York. He became so concerned that it became his life mission to do something to help these unfortunate children.

In 1853, Brace and like minded supporters formed the New York Children’s Aid Society. The philosophical belief of the Society was that perpetual misery was the only possibility for homeless children living in the big city under such adverse conditions. The members of the Society believed these children needed to be removed from the streets of New York and placed in the homes of caring, loving Christian farm families throughout the mid-west. And so, in 1854 the first train load of children left New York for the rural mid-west and a new life. From 1854 to 1929 these trains—eventually dubbed "orphan trains" transported thousands of children. It is estimated that over 100,000 children were removed from the streets of New York and transported to what is now forty-seven different states.

We do not think anyone would find Rev. Brace at fault for wanting to improve the lives of such unfortunate children. And certainly, many of them did find good homes and a chance for a happy successful life that they never would have had if left on their own in New York. But the story of the children of the Orphan Trains is not without some sadness. Otto and I will share both the positive and negative of the story.

The homeless children came to the attention of the Society via various avenues. Often children that were orphaned or abandoned, especially young children, ended up in orphanages. New York had quite a few orphanages where unwanted, homeless children were placed. Some of the older children—middle school or teenagers—ended up in prisons with hardened adult criminals. The Society searched the orphanages and prisons seeking out children that would qualify for the program. The Society also went to improvised families trying to convince the parents or parent that the child would have a better chance for happiness and success if placed with loving farm families. Many parents agreed that a life of poverty was not what they wanted for their children, and they would sign papers giving up their rights to the child. Parents giving up their children signed papers promising never to try to make contact with the child again. It is hard to imagine what these poor parents felt as they gave up their own flesh and blood, or the bewilderment the child must have felt to learn mama and papa where giving him/her away.

When it came time for traveling West, the children were told the night before that in the morning they would board a train that would take them to a new home, which might be in Kansas, Texas, Minnesota, Illinois, etc. In the morning the children were dressed in new clothes and given an extra set of clothing all of which was put in small suitcase and marked with the child’s name.

If there were just a few children heading West, the children along with adult care givers would share the train car with other passengers. Some times a large number of children were sent; in this case, the railroad provided a separate car carrying just the children and the care givers. Whatever the travel accommodations, the children were not allowed to leave the train car until they reached the destination of their future home. The length of train travel depended on the destination, but the children could expect to spend at least two to four days in route.

The agents accompanying the children were very concerned and cared about the children. Still one cannot help but wonder about what must have run through the minds of these little ones as they left New York. These young children were traveling to places totally unfamiliar to live with total strangers. It must have been plenty frightening to the children.

Prior to sending the children to new homes, the Children’s Aid Society made arrangement with the community receiving the children. Notices ran in the local newspaper days before the train load of children arrived. Here is an example of an ad that ran in the local paper: A company of orphans ages 2 to 16 will be arriving on August 19th in Countryville. The Children’s Aid Society of New York is asking the citizens of the community to help in finding homes for these children. The children are to be properly trained and educated so that they may become useful citizens. The conditions are that all shall be properly clothed and treated as members of the family, those under 15 are to be sent to school and to remain until they are 18; those over 15 to remain until they are 17, while those over 16 remain for one year. The society reserves the right to remove a child at any time for just cause.

The Society’s agents in attempting to prepare the community for accepting children requested that a committee of leading, honest, trustworthily citizens be formed.

The committee usually consisted of local ministers, bankers, wealthy, successful farmers and merchants. The job of the committee was to review applications of those seeking homeless children. The committee was to determine if the child would be treated properly if placed in the home of the applicant. Once the child was placed in a home, Society agents were to make annual follow up visits checking on the well being of the child. The yearly follow-ups were often neglected simply because there were never enough agents to check on the thousands of children placed in homes throughout the mid-west. We feel that the society certainly made ever efforts to ensure the child went to a good home, but without annual visits some children did fall into terrible cracks.

The train ride, no doubt, was grueling for these children, but we think what they experienced once they reached the community was also a harsh, frightening experience. The children, prior to the train pulling in the station, were again cleaned up and dressed in fresh clothes. They were made to look their best. Once the train pulled into the station the children were taken to a church or some hall large enough to accommodate all the children, the care givers, and the prospective foster families that would take the children.

Once everyone was inside, the proceedings began. The children were literally put on display. Those interested in taken one of the children would walk around eyeing the child up and down, looking into the child’s mouth and often feeling the teeth. One Orphan Train woman recalls that it was all she could do to keep from biting the man because he had terrible dirty hands. The muscles of the children were felt to determine if they would be good helpers on the farm. The families would pick out the child they wanted, sign a few papers, and the family would head back home with the new, albeit frightened, addition to the family.

There were regulations followed in the selection procedure: if the child flatly refused to go with the family, the child was not forced to go. All placements with the families were considered trial basis. If after a period of adjustment the child was unhappy with the family, the child could request to be removed and the request was granted. Likewise, if the family was dissatisfied with the child, the family could return the child. The family was required to feed, clothes, board, and see the child received an education, but the family was not required to legally adopt; however, legal adoption did occur. The children placed with a family were expected to work and share in the responsibilities as if in a "real" family.

Many children did find good homes, but some children did not. There is no record of how many were placed successfully or poorly. There were families that just wanted a child for the work they could get—these children faired little better than the slaves. There are records of children running away never to be found. "Run-aways" tended to be older teenage boys. Keep in mind, most of the children were not farm children; instead they were children of immigrant families that left an overcrowded European city for an overcrowded American city. No doubt, for the older teenage boy farm life was bewildering.

The Society did keep some records of where the children were placed—but the records are somewhat incomplete. Certainly, no statistics were taken to determine how many ended in good homes or how many children ended up in abusive situation. To some extent, the Society did keep track and stayed in contact with the children. Records of the Society have been found—the records contain list of names, journal entries of placements, and letters from the children. In recent years there has been effort to track down some background information on these children. Children of the Orphan Trains often ran into difficulty because they could not document their background. For example, if you cannot prove who you are or where you came from applying for driver license, social security, and even some jobs, it can be very tough.

In addition to the possibility of being placed with an abusive family, the children also experienced ostracizing by others in the community. The mid-west has a reputation of being suspicious of outsiders and these children were clearly outsiders. While most spoke English, it was broken English; after all these were poor immigrant children that had little education before coming to America. The worst experience many of these children experienced was being labeled bastards. Often members of the farm communities viewed these orphans as off-springs of drunks and prostitutes; the prostitute having dumped the child on the doorstep of an orphanage. Many of the Orphan Train children told of being rejected by the community. One woman said, "I would look in the mirror and try to figure out why no one wanted me around—I couldn’t understand how I looked different." One Orphan Train child said—we were considered as those having "bad blood" because our background was unknown.

Marie and I have concluded that the intentions of Rev Brace certainly were aimed at helping these desperate children to a better life. Many of the Orphan Train children themselves acknowledge that if they had not been removed from the streets they would have surely experience only misery and death. Yet, taking children and sending then out West to live with total strangers had to be traumatic and probably left some scaring that lasted a life time.

Perhaps the children taken from their parents suffered the most. One man reported that his father was at the train station when he and his brothers were shipped off. He remembers his father crying. The father gave the boy a paper with his address and asked the son to write him. No doubt, one of the attendants saw the father giving the child the paper. During the night the paper disappeared, and the child was never able to contact his broken hearted father. The man said that his father may have been a drunk, but he obviously loved us, or he would have not been at the station crying and making an effort to keep contact with us. Also for the siblings, it must have been hard when they were separated from each other. There does seem to be some indication that if a family could not take brothers and sisters, the Society at least tried to place the siblings in the same communities, so they could stay in contact with each other.

Assessing the success or even determinating the right or wrongness of the Orphan Trains is hard. We feel the best assessment is that it helped thousands of children who might have never had a chance otherwise, but like all institutions that seek to help children, there are always a few children that fall through the crack and are seriously harmed. Today foster care has replaced the Orphan Trains that operated seventy-five years. We all know that the current foster care system with all it wonderful care givers has an occasional abuser that harms the child permanently. Obviously, no child care system is without flaws—but hopefully the success of trying to help children caught in sad conditions far outweighs the failures.

 11-2006 Gordon Parks - Genius

This month we have selected another personality that has Kansas roots. Again, we face a giant task in trying to reduce to a few words the story of a man who went through so much yet has reached such distinguished levels of accomplishments.

Gordon Parks entered into a life filled with poverty and racism in 1912 Fort Scott Kansas. For many blacks an impoverished life overshadowed by bigotry proves destructive, but for Gordon Parks, the dual evils harden and shaped his life in ways that allowed him to reach unbelievable levels of creativity. Parks has excelled in a multitude of careers: photographer, film director, novelist and composer of music.

In the early 1900s, Fort Scott exhibited the typical American racism of the time. Restaurants barred blacks; special sections – the poorest sections – were selected as "proper seating" for blacks in theatres; blacks could not participate in school sports or social events; and black youths were discouraged from getting a higher education. Educational systems were based on the "separate but equal" concept which, in reality, meant segregate the blacks and put them in inferior schools. Most blacks found only menial, low paying jobs. In short, fifty years after the Civil War, blacks were still socially, economically and politically subordinate to whites. We point this out simply to give a little background on what conditions were like at the time.

Parks does not deny the effect such unjust treatment had on him. As an innocent child, Parks wondered why blacks were considered inferior to whites. Eventually, the innocent questioning turned to rage towards the white world. Parks believes the early nurturing of his parents saved him from unleashing his anger upon the white society.

Sarah and Andrew, Parks’ parents, were loving, hard working and religious people. Even through poverty encompassed the family, the parents worked hard to insure that the large family had the essentials for life, albeit the necessities were sparse at times. Parks attributes much to his mother’s influence in preparing him to meet the struggles and hardships of life. His mother embodied love and justice in all her actions. She told Parks that racists are the ones with the problems and that at some point, in this or the next life, they will be the ones who pay. She also instilled in him the belief that there was nothing that one could not accomplish if one truly wanted it and tried hard. Through his mother’s influence, Parks avoided letting anger consume him, thus allowing him to reach elevated levels of creativity.

The love, warmth and support he found in his family gave him a sense of security, even in the face of the twin evils, poverty and bigotry. But that security ended when, at the age of fifteen, his mother died. After her death, Parks was sent to live with an older sister in St. Paul. This move proved disastrous for Parks, as his sister’s husband, for some reason, rejected the teenager and kicked him out of the house. Consequently, at a very vulnerable and tender age, Parks was thrown into the cruel world on his own. The remaining teen years were nightmares filed with hatred, violence and poverty. There were few job opportunities for young black men, which meant little chance of escaping from a life filled with hell.

Parks describes on horror filled job in a flophouse in Chicago. His job consisted of cleaning the place; a cleaning job few could handle. The men staying there were violent, filthy, hopeless drunks and drug addicts; men who usually passed out in their own vomit, urine and feces. Throughout that period of employment, his life was filled with terror, but he saved money and eventually returned to St. Paul. But, before escaping that place, Parks almost committed a crime that would have cost him his freedom and most likely his life.

Parks, with a natural music talent, taught himself to play the piano. This talent enabled him to find work as a piano player, mostly in brothels. Nonetheless, this job was better than work most blacks found. He also worked for a period in the Civilian Conservation Corp during the Great Depression. A porter’s job on the North Coast Limited helped pave the way for his future as a photographer.

On one of the runs he found a portfolio of photographs left behind by a passenger. The photos, depicting the Depression, included shots of displaced workers, shanty villages, dust storms and crop failure… the general despair that characterized the 1930s. These pictures left a deep impression on Parks, not just because of the subjects they depicted, but because the photos hauntingly brought to life the ugly realities of impoverished people. A couple more incidents involving the powerful effects of photography convinced Parks that he wanted to be a photographer. He wrote: I was determined to become a photographer… I bought my first camera at a pawnshop for $7.50. It was a Voightlander Brilliant. Not much of a camera, but a great name to toss around. I had bought what was to become my weapon against poverty and racism.

One of his early photography jobs involved taking fashion photos, a job he landed through shear guts. Having no experience in fashion photography, did not stop Parks from walking to a fashionable clothing store in St. Paul one spring day and asking the owner if he could photograph fashions for the store. The owner was ready to walk by and ignore Parks’ request, but his wife seized upon the opportunity. While taking pictures was considerably more enjoyable than most work Parks found, his early years as a cameraman continued to be lean, making it difficult for Parks to support a wife and growing family.

He decided to move his family back to Chicago and look for photography work in the big city. The family continued to struggle financially until Parks became to the first photographer to win the Julius Rosenwald Fund … an award given to someone with promising creative talent. The photos that won Parks recognition were those of impoverished blacks in Chicago.

As a result of the award, he received a fellowship with the Farm Security Administration doing photographic documentation of the plight of farmers. This job took the Parks family to the nation’s capital for the next two years. Parks quickly discovered that Washington, D.C. was a city filled with racial hatred. The nation’s capital became a place where Parks could certainly utilize the power of the camera lens through which the ugliness of racism in DC was depicted for everyone to see.

Following those years he went to New York to resume a career in fashion photography, working for Harper’s Bazaar, Vogue and Glamour magazines. But Parks had his sights set on an even greater prize… he wanted to be a photographer for Life, a job he landed and held for twenty years.

As a Life photographer, his assignments took him all over the world. Some assignments were glamorous, allowing him to take photos of movie stars, heroes, record breaking events, etc. For some assignments, however, his camera focused on ugliness: poverty, crime, prison oppression, etc. Parks was a key photographer during the Civil Rights movement of the sixties.

In addition to photography, Parks also became an accomplished writer. One novel, The Learning Tree, was made into a movie which he directed. He has gone on to direct a number of Hollywood movies: Shaft, The Super Cops and Shaft’s Big Score. In all these endeavors he has proven to be a creative genius.

Marie and I have just barely touched on a few accomplishments of Gordon Parks, but it’s obvious from even this short list that Kansas can take deep pride in its native son. As we read Parks’ book, Voices in the Mirror, an Autobiography, Marie and I begin to wonder if Parks could take pride in Kansas after all the racial indiscretions he faced. We were happy to discover in one of the final chapters that Kansas has acknowledged and shown Parks the recognition he deserves. And while Parks is not a bitter man, he knows racism is not over.

Reading Parks’ autobiography was a great reminder for us. We realized the really great, creative talents that Parks possesses, but we were also reminded again of the ugliness of bigotry. Hatred is such a powerfully destructive force. Sadly, bigots of any kind end up not only destroying the innocent for which their hate is aimed, but also they destroy themselves through their own hate, and there can be no meaningful creativity in hatred.

Osa Johnson - I Married Adventure

This month, we have chosen once again to talk about a famous Kansan who was a woman way ahead of her time, Osa Leighty Johnson, 1894- 1953. Osa’s marriage to Martin Johnson, when she was only sixteen, started her on a life that was anything but typical for a housewife of the early 1900s. While most homemakers of that era were busy cooking, cleaning, washing, gardening, canning, sewing, and raising kids, Osa was busy traveling and helping her husband photograph wild animals in primitive areas of the world. For our main source of information regarding Osa’s life we relied on her autobiography, I Married Adventure. The title aptly describes her life.

Osa was born in 1894 in Chanute. She met Martin for the first time when she was only seven; he was seventeen at that first encounter. This first meeting did not leave a positive impression on Osa. As a matter-of-fact, Martin really irritated her. It would be nine years before they met again, and the second meeting was also a source of irritation to her.

Martin’s love for photography set the stage for the first chance encounter. At the age of seventeen, Martin decided to make his fortune traveling from town to town as a portrait photographer; thus, one day he arrived in Chanute. Upon hearing that a photographer was in town, seven-year-old Osa decided that her little three-year-old brother, Vaughn, should have his picture taken. She convinced her father to give her a dime, a considerable sum in those days, so she could take young Vaughn to the traveling photographer. The dime would buy ten pictures. She dressed and groomed her little brother for the picture wanting him to look perfect. The walk that hot September day to the photographer’s studio caused little Vaughn to loose a good portion of his freshness.

Osa recounted the first encounter with Martin. Upon entering the studio, Osa with three-year-old Vaughn, who now was howling with protest [was told by a] tall thin young man with a black cloth over his head and a gray rubber apron covering him from knees to chin [standing] behind a camera . . . ‘Sit down, you kids, and be quiet.’ Martin was busy photographing a baby girl, so while waiting for Vaughn’s turn, Osa attempted to wipe off some of the tear streaked smudges of dirt from Vaughn face and restore him to some of his shining cleanness that had been his when we left home.

When Vaughn’s turn came, the trouble really began. She writes, Well, nothing that has happened to me before or since has equaled the humiliation, struggle and pure anger of that next fifteen minutes. The young photographer had his ideas of how the picture should be taken, I had mine and Vaughn wanted none of any of it. And then something happened that was quite beyond my experience and to this day has me puzzled whenever I encounter it. They looked at each other, these two, and then effortlessly and without a word reached some sort of pact that completely excluded me. Off came the broad white embroidered collar; the hair which I had smoothed at regular intervals from the moment we left home was tousled deliberately and just as the picture was snapped, Vaughn grinned.

The photographer laughed and said, ‘That’s fine, young fellow, this’ll be good.’ Then to me something about, ‘Ten cents, please, little girl, and you’ll have to come back for the pictures this afternoon; I’m leaving Chanute in the morning.’

I looked at him and picked up the discarded white collar; I looked at Vaughn, now a perfect angel of sweetness and good intention; then paid the ten cents in a voiceless rage and left.

Before describing the next encounter between Osa and Martin, we will give some brief information on Martin’s activities between their first and second meetings. Martin’s activities set the stage for the joint adventure that he and Osa shared for twenty seven years.

After a short spell as a traveling photographer, Martin realized he would never make a living at that job; he just barely broke even. As a result, he decided he would have to resign himself to the fact that he would have to enter into business with his father, which is what the senior Johnson always wanted. John Johnson had established a very successful jewelry in Independence, and he had always dreamed that someday his son would join him in the jewelry store. Consequently, for a number of years Martin tried being contented with the jewelry business, but he was always restless.

One day, Martin happened upon an article written by Jack London. The article described a seven-years-around-the world voyage that London was planning. The vessel that would carry the London’s, Jack and his wife plus four-crew member, would be a specially designed forty-four foot boat. The article went on to say—they still needed one crewmember. Martin lost no time in applying for the position, and, to his great surprise, he was accepted. To his even greater surprise he was to be the ships cook. Martin took a quick crash course in cooking, but he never mastered the art. As a rule his meals were lousy.

The seven-year trip was shortened to only a little over two years because Jack and other crewmembers suffered from scurvy. Nonetheless, those two years at sea set the stage for the remainder of Martin’s life. During the voyage, he developed an unquenchable thirst for adventure and a desire to photograph the untamed areas of the world.

After returning from the trip, an Independence drug store owner, Charlie Kerr, became Martin’s business associate and friend. Charlie convinced Martin that he should share his pictures and experiences with audiences.

This suggestion opened up the movie business for Martin. In a short time Charlie and Martin were operating two movie houses in Independence. In addition to showing movies, Martin shared his adventures with the audience.

The typical movie theater of the early 1900s had singers who performed between shows. In Martin’s movie house Gail Page sang; Gail was Osa’s closest friend. It was through Gail that Osa once again came into contact with Martin. As previously mentioned, the second meeting proved to be just as irritating for Osa as the first experience she had when Martin photographed her little brother.

Osa had gone to hear Gail sing at the theater. Osa thoroughly enjoyed hearing her friend sing, but when Martin began showing his pictures of cannibals and such, Osa could take none of it and left. Gail wanted Osa to meet Martin after the show, but Osa replied I never want to meet him as long as I live.

A couple weeks later Osa returned to spend the weekend with Gail and her new husband. The newly weds planned a double date with Osa and Martin. That date turned out to be a disaster and Osa could not get back to Chanute fast enough.

Nonetheless, once back home Osa could not shake the thought of Martin. Later that week, she was on cloud nine when she received a letter from Martin asking if he might call on her the coming Sunday. Martin called on her the next two Sundays. Both times Osa was convinced she never wanted to see him again; she was ready to give up on the man. She wondered how it was possible for anyone to make me as mad as this man always did.

It might have ended after those two times of Martin courting her, but the following week Martin called and asked her if she would fill in for Gail and sing at the theater; Gail was ill. Osa agreed, but it was because she loved her friend; she was not doing it to please Martin. Osa’s father gave her strict orders that after she was finished performing, she was to catch the 5 o’clock train back to Chanute.

By the time the performance was over Osa had had more than enough of the arrogant Martin. She decided to head for the train depot early to get away from "that man." Martin offered to take her to the station. While on the way, he asked if she would mind if he made a quick stop at the theater. While at the theater it started to rain, and while they were waiting for the rain to stop, Martin impulsively asked Osa to marry him that day! She impulsively said yes! And by 9 o’clock that evening, they were married!

Both families were shocked about the hurried marriage, but the deed was done, so they accepted the marriage. And despite the chaotic courtship, if a few unpleasant dates can be called courtship, Osa and Martin adjusted well to married life. Osa was a happy bride, and she was quite proud of her husband.

The couple had been living in an apartment over a store for about six months when Osa suggested that they buy a lot and start building a home. Osa was not prepared for Martin’s reaction. He told her he could not do that—he just could not be anchored to a home. Furthermore, he feared the worst. Their hasty marriage had been a terrible mistake especially since he realized how much she wanted a home and family. In desperation, he exclaimed, I’d go crazy if I thought I had to stay here all the rest of my life. . . . We are going around the world, Osa!"

Osa was quite taken back and not a little bit confused by he remarks. All she could say was "Well, all right, dear." But she seriously wondered how they could afford such a trip. Martin suggested that first they sell all their possessions, including the wedding gifts; then they would go touring around the country lecturing and showing his adventure pictures. He needed to broaden his audience beyond Independence.

From that point on Osa wrote, I began to grasp the fact that not only was I married to a very unusual man, but to a man with an obsession besides. I grasped the additional fact that we probably never would live the way other people did, and it seemed to me suddenly that under the circumstances I had an excessive amount of pride of the wrong sort. Acquiring a fine home, nice clothes, having a successful husband, all the substantial things, had been very important to me; but now, as I looked at Martin, I began in a fumbling way to shape a different sort of pride.

It took the couple over two years touring about the country before they were able to collect enough money to begin their adventure. Their lecture tour took them as far away as Canada. Finally they acquired enough money, $400,000, and their adventure began. On their first trip they crossed the Pacific, touching base at Honolulu, Samoa, Pago-Pago and Australia.

Martin learned of some fierce cannibalistic tribes in the Solomon Islands and was determined to find and to photograph them. Someone suggested that maybe Osa should not accompany him on that picture taking adventure. Osa became quite indignant replying, If you go I’m going with you Martin Johnson. That’s what I came for and that’s how it’s going to be—the whole way. The whole way! And that is the way the Johnsons traveled, always as a couple, regardless of the danger. By the way, they had quite an experience with the cannibals on that first trip; it was extremely intense for a while.

In their twenty-five years of travel they had many exciting filming adventures. Once while filming in Africa, they discovered a pride of over a dozen lions at leisure. The Johnson’s were literally just a few feet away from the "kings of the jungle" as they rolled the film.

Every time they returned to the States, their films and lectures were in great demand by all ages.

Sadly, Martin was killed in a plane crash in 1937. In that crash Osa was also seriously injured, but after recovering she went on touring and sharing the adventures she had shared with Martin. In addition to helping Martin with the photographing and filming of wild untamed areas, Osa became an expert marksman and she also took up flying. They each had their own planes that they flew during their adventures, the Spirit of Africa and Osa’s Ark.

The Johnson’s had a unique partnership.

Underground At Park University

We want to share an unusual growth story with you this month. It concerns how a small college that ran out of building space not only solved that problem, adding thousands of square feet to its campus, but also adding two unique sources of revenue in the process. The college is Park University in Parkville Missouri. Although the college received university status in 2000, the institution is quite old—one hundred and twenty-one years, opening its door in 1875.

Two men are given credit for founding the college: Colonel George S. Park and Dr. John A. McAfee. Park was the founder of the city of Parkville, and he wanted his town to have a college. Dr. McAfee is the educator that laid the academic foundation for Park College. Colonel Park donated the land for the school and the first building for the school—a hotel in Parkville. A side note—Park received the commission of Colonel when he served one year in Sam Houston’s army in Texas’ battle for independence.

If our readers are familiar with Western Missouri or Eastern Kansas, they know the area is covered with trees and hills. The land Colonel Park gave for Park College was no exception. The college is literally on a bluff over looking the Missouri River; the trees and hills with a look toward the River makes Park University is a very picturesque campus. The main campus buildings are on about 100 of the 800 acres the University owns; the remaining acres are held in endowment.

The main buildings at Park University include McKay, a beautiful old building built in 1899 and includes a clock tower; the humanities building; science hall; the old library now serving as admission office are also some of the early building on the campus. Newer buildings are the alumni hall that houses the performing arts; the dorms; and the student union. Also on campus are the President’s home and a couple older buildings. Parts of these building are near or on top of the bluff; the other buildings are a various levels of the hilly bluff. If you’re at a building at the bottom of the hill, you have about 60 steps to climb to reach the upper part of the campus. Of course, there is road, so you can drive to the highest part of the campus. But no matter where you are, you most likely will climb a few steps.

The hilliness of the area must have added to the challenges of building the campus—nothing is on flat ground. The hills, however, did add some help in the building process. Most of the older buildings are built of limestone, which was quarried out of the hills. Two types of limestone are quarried from the area: Argentina and Bethany Falls. The fact the college could provide a portion of its building material certainly helped defray cost. And labor in the early days was done by students. Dr. McAfee brought a unique educational philosophy to Park. He believed that all capable students should have the opportunity for an education regardless of their economic circumstances. As a result the college set up a "Family Work Program." The students in the program attended morning classes and worked for the college in the afternoon. Work included building, planting and harvesting crops, cooking, etc—whatever needed to be done. The student worked for the college and in returned received a first class education.

The unique work program attracted many students seeking a liberal arts education. And the college provided an excellent liberal arts education to students through highly qualified and gifted instructors. Growth of the college was steady, and as was bound to happen, Park College began to run out of space. One of the first noticeable shortages of space problem was the library.

The original library was a two story Carnegie building built in 1908. In 1923 an addition was added; the library could comfortable hold 40,000 volumes. By the mid 1900s it had over twice that many volumes. Something had to be done to provide more space in the library—but what, since ground space was limited. In the 1960s it was suggested that a different approach be applied to the college rock quarry. Why not do more then just remove rock for building? Why not carve out an underground facility for the library. A plus to the plan included the potential to sell the quarried limestone.

Underground facilities are not uncommon in hilly regions. The controlled, even climates, in underground facilities are great for storages—but certainly the caverns can be used for much more than storage. So, Park College excitedly launched in an investigation into creating an underground library. The actual work on the underground library did not start until 1981; the construction of the underground facilities would take almost fifteen years. Why so long, you may be asking. It was because there was a considerable amount of pre-preparation. We will list nine steps that had to be complete before the actually library could be laid out.

First, there had to be core drilling into the hill. This core drilling provided the information for the next step. The second step was engineering studies of the core drilling and surveys to make sure craving out a large amount of the hill would be safe above and below ground. The third step was the removal of 82,000 tons of limestone rock. Fourth, after each blasting and removal of the blasted away rock, the roof of the underground area needed to be secured with roof bolts. This bolting is done on every 4 square foot of the ceiling. The construction used in the creation of Park’s underground is "room and pillars." This method entails carving out rooms 25 ft wide with ceilings 12 to 14 ft high. The actual blasting of rock took place between the pillars, which are evenly spaced at 15 ft intervals. The pillars are about 25 sq ft in circumference and they are the main support for the underground facilities. Fifth, it was decided in the planning stage that three entrances to the underground facilities would be needed. The main entry tunnel to the underground is 1,025 feet long. Another important consideration was getting the heavy equipment into the underground to do the work—trunks were needed to haul away the limestone rock. So sixth, a special Bernold arch 65 ft high had to be created at the entrance for entering and exiting the underground. Seventh, after removal of the rock, the walls and pillars of the underground were sprayed with liquid concrete. Eighth, basic lighting and plumbing lines were put in place. Finally, the nineth step would be the pouring of concrete flooring.

Now the actual building of the underground library facilities could begin. Designated areas were walled off for rooms, floors were finished, additional lighting, heating, cooling, ventilation was installed, woodwork added, and finally decorating the various rooms and supplying necessary equipments. The underground space at Park has a wide variety of uses. In addition to the 48,000 sp ft library, the underground is home to the main computer center, the mail room, the campus bookstore, a board room, large seminar rooms, computer lab, offices, and "smart" classrooms. More recently beautiful facilities for the College of Distant Learning were added to the underground facilities. Park University has 42 campuses on military bases in 21 states offering a wide variety of degrees.

Solving Park’s need for more space was just one phase of the underground—there is much more to the underground facilities. So far 700,000 sq ft has been mined and finished. About a third of this area is leased commercially. A local school district is one of the residents using spaces for offices, storage, and a Resource Instruction Center. Neighboring Johnson Country also is a big renter. Other renters include a light manufacturer, an engineering firm, wine wholesaler, an enzyme distributor, food manufacturers, an electronic manufacturer, medical record providers, and data warehousing to name a few. As previously mentioned, underground provides a climate controlled environment, year round even temperature and controlled moisture. These two points alone lower operating cost. There is no shortage of renters. While the commercial underground is busy, there is still available space for new renters and more space is still being created. Park University projects that within the coming twenty-five years the amount excavated for space will be more than double the size of the currently available underground space.

In addition to the income from renting space, the University also makes money through the selling of limestone. Large portions of limestone is sold for road construction. It becomes crushed aggregate used in asphalt paving. And Redi-Mix concrete is a major buyer of the limestone. The leasing of space and selling of rock generates about $600,000 of income yearly for the University.

Hopefully, through the pictures provided you’ll get some idea of the massive size of the underground world at Park University. It is truly amazing!